ok basically lets say i can hear to about 22 hz.

if i cut off at 22 hz then if i want the bass to shake me then i will also hear it and it may not be something that was intended to be heard, only felt.

therefore response must extend below audibility to enable effects which are tactile ONLY with no audible coloration of program.

also response must go low enough to enable all tactile sensation mechanisms. for example if chest resonates at 40 hz and the system doesn’t go that low then it is unable to tap into this sensation.

but what is the lowest such frequency that is relevant ? there are no resonances in the body below 20 hz.

furthermore your clothes and hair don’t vibrate from air pressure, but from air movement. and air movement diminishes below room pressurization frequency - at lowest frequencies indoors you have pressure, but no movement. room pressurization begins at around 30 hz depending on room size.

the only thing left below 20 hz that is of interest is building resonances - but those can simply be taken care by bass shakers.

so i propose that we need a band below 22 hz ( or whatever is deemed threshold of audibility ) for certain special effects like making pants flutter but this band doesn’t need to be wider than a few HZ - it just needs to exist. so lets say this band can be 12 hz - 22 hz.

and then if you want extra room shaking just add bass shakers - they will shake your room at least as well as subwoofers but take up NO space.

of course you can’t completely fool the brain. a system with acoustic response to DC is still going to have a better slam ( not more powerful, but better ) in the chest but i think the cost benefit in trying to go after frequencies below 12 hz or so is not there.

also now i am thinking if you want to get your hair and pants to move about then double bass array is the only technology that will do it properly. and multiple geddes / welti style subs will actually be the WORST for this - as they tend to pressurize the air without moving it.

Hello all!

It’s been a while since I posted, probably since I posted about my entertainment center, but I am currently in the process of building my first ht sub. Here are the details:

Here is my current project. I will be using 1" MDF. The size of the enclosure will be 20×23x34. The volume before displacement is 7.0 cu. ft. Volume after displacement is 6.025 cu. ft. This enclosure will be ported. The ports will be (3)3"x20.8". This enclosure is designed to handle 1024 watts and will use 2 of the RE SE12 D4 subwoofers. The subs displace 0.15 cu. ft. each. The ports displace 0.11345 cu.ft. each. I have included the bassbox 6 sheet for everyone to look at. The design should produce 120+ db of bass with the wattage provided to it. The enclosure will be covered in red oak veneer and stained to match my entertainment center.

2/6/2010

2/9/2010

2/13/2010

Changes to the design some……

2/15/2010

2/20/2010

2/25/2010

2/27/2010

Here is the BB6 File

SC HTSW001

This is a basic time-line gathered from my posts on my web site www.scaudioconcepts.com and hometheatershack.com, which can be found here:

http://www.scaudioconcepts.com/modul…d=2#forumpost2

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru…b-build-2.html

Thank you all for taking the time to look at my project!

Well After 3+ days of not knowing what the was going on with my UCA 202 calibration settings and not being able to get it to work, Ive decided to make a thread so that nobody else has to have the same hair pulling issue like I did for the past 3 days.. :rant: Its not that it was difficult, just confusing, when you wonder why so many things can go wrong with such a basic setup.. Well This thread is for anyone who has problems with the UCA 202 wether its Calibration, compatibility with REW windows 7 or Vista..

My setup - HP pavillion dv6 laptop running Windows 7 Home Premium

From the start.. I did not have to Download anything to get my UCA 202 working off the bat, after I plugged it in , it automatically downloaded the settings I needed which then let me go to the first step, which was Going into my Sound Options in my computer

So In your computer go to — Control panel>Hardware and Sound>Sound then choose the Playback tab then select speaker , Then go to the levels section, set that to 50%, then just make sure all enhancements are off , then Choose the Advanced tab and choose 16 bit 44,100 hz ( cd quality ) sample rate

Once those are set, Plug in your UCA then open up REW once the device is recgonized ( Ive had Issues with it not working properly if you open REW THEN hook up the UCA, ) As well as make sure the Monitor switch on the UCA is clicked to OFF

Then open up the soundcard settings …

Just opening REW

Opening up the Soundcard settings

Then right off the Bat ( if you have windows 7 ) you can try my settings found in the pic below, The fine tuning can be done later but at this point you just want to make sure your UCA is working properly through your right channel MAKE SURE , that the output volume mute box is NOT checked

Then with your right input and output looped together on the UCA click the measure tab then click to the following screens and you should get a measurement like this.. If you do NOT , stop, here and save yourself a few pulled hairs by starting over

.. It should look like the pic below

Then it should do a sweep and look like this

and your graph should look like this

If that all worked and you see your graphs and reading like mine, your pretty much good to go. Ill be adding to this as I go and adding more trouble shooting tips and thanking everyone on here who helped me through this myself !

I have a pair of KLH 9912’s that I use as my mains in my living room with my HT.
I have them powered by an Onkyo 805. Recently I blew out the woofer on the left speaker and I can tell that the right one is on its way out.

I love how these things sound for 2ch Music and for most of my standard older DVD and TV watching. They can reach pretty low being that they are 12’s and that they are *Rated* at 28Hz-20,000Hz
I know that these are not anywhere near what some of you guys have, and until I start work on building myself a pair of Statements, this is what I have.

So, my question is; I want to replace the blown woofers in these things. I know that these speakers are probably only worth the cost of the speakers I want to put into them. I also know that there are some guys out here who spend countless hours modeling box volumes, and calculating everything, and designing amazing crossovers and the whole nine yards.
I just want this to work decently until I can start on building a set of real nice speakers.

So, Here are my options:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho…number=295-320
* Power handling: 80 watts RMS/115 watts max, Frequency response: 25-2,500 Hz, Fs: 26 Hz, SPL: 90.5 dB 1W/1m *

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show…number=290-335
*Power handling: 120 watts RMS/240 watts max. Frequency response: 35-1,500 Hz, Fs: 38 Hz *SPL: 87.2 dB 2.83W/1m

Obviously the first thing I see is the 90.5 dB versus 87.2 which means the Daytons will get louder with less power. But these cannot handle quite as much as the next pair, but I do not think that will be an issue with my Onkyo and being paired with the mid’s and highs in one 3 way.

The other thing is, at that price point. It is cheaper for me to possibly get a pair of 5 1/4’s for the mids than to pay shipping and break that 100$ mark.
The thing is, I am not sure what I would need to look for in a good (Cheap) replacement.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show…number=295-300
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show…number=295-301
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show…number=295-330
All of these look quite similar except for a few tiny differences.
Obviously the xover will make a huge difference and I cannot change that, but I know that running with Dayton low’s and mids will produce a good sound, but I also saw this and I was wondering if It would be worth the few extra dollars, or would it throw everything else out of place?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show…number=264-850

Thanks in advance.

Maxwell.

Hello everyone, my name is Joe and I’m a DIY kind of guy. I’ve been browsing through the site for a while and recently decided to join. I’m very new to the HT thing but I’m not entirely new to DIY audio, I’ll give you a little background.

I’ve got a passion for music of all kinds, several years ago I took that passion for music and started to build a car audio system. Like most people in their early 20’s (I’m 26 now) I didn’t have the money for a great home audio system, and I spent A LOT more time in my car than at home. Over the years I have learned a ton, my system is a fully active 2-way front stage with a nice IB sub stage. Having an active crossover capable head unit I have been able to research and audition a lot of drivers that I wouldn’t normally be able to in a typical mobile setting. My current set up consists of Image Dynamics 6.5’s and BG neo 3 tweeters up front and some IDQ 10’s in the back.

Enough about that. I’m trying to apply my DIY spirit to my new home theater project. I’ve got a PS3 as my main source paired with a Denon 1610 receiver. It’s time to build some decent speakers but this is where my car audio experience ceases to benefit me. I have a good understanding of the basics, I can read graphs, I understand voltage and wattage and impedance. I can build enclosures and I’m confident enough with an EQ but that’s about where it ends. I don’t have a full understanding of TS parameters, I can build a crossover but I wouldn’t know how to design one. I can build simple sealed enclosures and basic vented ones, but I wouldn’t be able to design anything more complicated.

These things are important for DIY home audio. I love the work, the building, the project aspect and I want to apply those principles to my new home theater set up. I want to build a great, budget friendly 5.1 set of speakers. This will be used for moves, but it still have to shine in stereo mode. Building the sub is easy, I will have no problem finding a good woofer and plate amp and building the appropriate enclosure for my situation. The difficult part will be building the front stage, L C R.

Given my limited knowledge but capable skills, a kit seems like the best solution. I have been contemplating the infamous Tritrix kit for a while now, but haven’t pulled the trigger. It offers a great value, perfectly within my budget and the amount of work involved seems perfect for me to not get in over my head. The trouble I’m having with this is silly center channel. In mobile audio center channels don’t exist in most situations, unless you have in car dvd. Since this is going to be a combination stereo/surround sound system I understand that the center channel is very important. With that being said I’m not sure which route to take. Regardless, the center channel will be toppled, I’ve read that this isn’t good in most cases, but it’s the most practical solution for my situation.

I’d like some suggestions as I get started. The first question I have is, if I but the Tritrix set for my fronts and build the TL enclosures would it be a step forward or backward to add a Tritrix center TOPPLED and SEALED? I don’t know how differently the enclosure types will respond and this may cause some nasty inconsistencies when i turn on a movie in 5.1.

If this idea won’t work, what are some recommendations for a good DIY 3 speaker kit? Considering the budget of a Tritrix front stage I’m open to suggestions. Would it be better to ditch the center channel if I can’t match it properly, or is the importance of a perfectly matched center blown out of proportion?

Sorry for the long thread, it won’t hurt my feelings if it goes unanswered.

Thanks,
Joe

I would like to start off with saying that this is my first DIY audio build and I am really looking forward to learning and exploring the various aspects of DIY audio. It is truly amazing to see what you guys design and build.

For my first build I would like to try a sealed subwoofer. Originally, I bought a ported eD A5-350 and I just didn’t feel like it fit well with my system. With a little encouragement from another forum member I decided to look into building a nice musical sub that would integrate well with my Vandersteen 2Ce Signatures. What was suggested to me was a AE 15-X based build in a sealed box driven by a pro amp.

I am going to be using this sub for a 50/50 mix of movies and music. Even though it will be used evenly for music and movies, I would like to focus on musicality.

My room is 25′x12′x8′ and my seating position is about 8′ away from my speakers. I played around with room placement using the eD sub and found that with my limited placement options, the best spot for it is right next to my mains in front of my seating area. This causes somewhat of a dilemma in that I don’t want something monstrous that will stick out into my walkway or look out of place. The size of the enclosure that has been suggested to me is a 18.75" cube. If this is the correct size, it would work out well with the limited room I have.

I am working on a limited budget so I have been piecing together the items I need over time as they go on sale or I find them second hand. So far I have:

- AE 15-X driver
- Behringer EP4000 amp
- Behringer BFD
- 4′x8′ piece of 3/4" Cherry veneered plywood

What I know I still need:

- Cabling from the amp to the sub (thinking of speakon connections?)
- Internal cabinet wiring
- Cabinet feet
- Polyfill
- T-nuts and screws to hold the driver in place
- Glue or epoxy

Is there anything else I am missing?

I have a friend who is a professional kitchen cabinet maker who is going to help me with this build because frankly my woodworking skills are horrendous. He should have all the tools we need to build it but I need to find out how to do this correctly. I’m guessing there are some differences between a kitchen cabinet and a speaker enclosure. From what I’ve noticed, it seems that just about every build and builder designs and assembles their cabinets a little differently. Are there any general rules that I should follow when building this?

For example:

Is there a certain joint style that I should use for the corners? I would like to make it look as nice as possible while still being strong.

How about glue? I see some people use a good quality wood glue while others use a two part epoxy. Which is better?

Should I support the magnet with the internal brace?

As far as wiring goes, I am looking at using speakon connections. They seem to be rugged and fairly inexpensive. Will the two pole connectors work or should I use four pole? It looks like the four pole style are a little more common and will give me greater flexibility.

I would like to get most of my supplies ordered this week or early next week so I can get a start on this build soon. Any suggestions for good parts suppliers would be very welcome.

Sorry for my many random questions but I want to make sure I build this correctly so it can last me a long time. Any tips, suggestions, and links to more information would be greatly appreciated.

Well I got a few hours in on friday and got pieces 1-8 in with braces and reflectors and havent been able to work on it since because of "priorities" :rolleyes: , Now the superbowl, so Ill be out there for a few more hours tonight after the game to finish all the panels.. For those that didn’t see my other threads I have some pretty crap arauco ( partially my fault for laying it on the ground )

So I’m going to just gonna finish up panels 9, 10 get the reflectors in , then let it set overnight with the clamps on it.. My question is , in the plans it says NOT to install the panel 5/10 braces, well im gonna pretend i didnt seee that cuz i must have them in there in order to get the panels straight.. SO ill just glue and clamp em, and leave them til tomorrow then throw the top on, err I mean the side

The fun begins

Well, I’m in the initial stages. I’ve sourced the tube and have settled on a driver and amp. Plotting is via WinISD. This is set up with a AV15-H in a 20" diameter and 6′ tall tube run at 1000w from an EP2500.

Driver : AV15-H
Project by : Owner
Project for : you
–
Number of drivers : 1
Box type : Vented
Box size : 22628.0 in^3
Tuning frequency : 10.00 Hz
Vent : 3 vent(s)
1.858 m length for each
4.00 in round

Relative
Freq Gain SPL
[Hz] [dB] [dB]
5.00 -36.57 78.88
10.00 -11.54 103.92
15.00 -11.38 104.07
20.00 -10.19 105.27
25.00 -8.88 106.57
30.00 -7.73 107.72
35.00 -6.76 108.70
40.00 -5.93 109.52
45.00 -5.23 110.22
50.00 -4.64 110.82
55.00 -4.13 111.32
60.00 -3.70 111.76
65.00 -3.32 112.14
70.00 -3.00 112.46
75.00 -2.71 112.74
80.00 -2.46 112.99
85.00 -2.25 113.21
90.00 -2.06 113.40
95.00 -1.89 113.57
100.00 -1.74 113.72

The plan is to use this behind my entertainment center and move my PC-13 ultra behind the main seats to use as a nearfield.

Am I missing anything?

Well I cut some of my pieces tonight 1-4 and dry fit everything and everything seemed to fit great, everything is lining up great and fitting together ( Im cutting one at a time due to the issue of pieces not fitting correctly in other threads ) SO… Now I for some reason had the urge to go check something out.. and realized that something is really wrong with these pics and I dont know what went wrong?! ALL panels are cut perfect, and to size and went together great, I used dual framing squaresfor the first piece to level it up, but something just isnt right

Then it went downhill from there

ALL Level here ( thIS IS PANEL #2 )

But moving the square closer ( where panel one starts ) at the edge is now really off ( Its a good 3/16 bowed with NO chance off pushing it out )

Top pic running down .. Im lost guys, I hope to god its not the Main panel that has the access panel on it thats goofy.. Ill have to leave panel 1 in til I finish all my dry cuts, then what leftovers I have Ill try to make another one…

I tried to get the hook out of it, but its screwed to panel 2 and 3.. When I took the screws off the front of panel one releasing panel 2 and 3 it was tight at the bottom and loose up top ..

Just thought I would share some pic’s of my project.

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