My goal is to be able to reencode to mkv/m2ts files. The mkv will be using moderate to heavy compression as these will be for TV shows and played back through WMC7. The m2ts files will be using light to moderate compression and will be for Blu-ray backups, keeping HD audio in tact. I would prefer to playback the m2ts files in WMC but dont think it will provide bitstreaming so I would have to us TMT3 Platinum. Finally, I want to be able to strip down and compress some Blu-rays just enough to burn to a BD-25.

Prior to getting into all of this I was using the Shark007 codecs and selected to use the gabest splitter in it’s options to playback in WMC7. Everything worked great but when I started wanting to backup Blu-ray most of the encoder programs out there require ffdshow, matroska splitter and avisynth. I found out that I couldn’t use the Shark007 codec pack in conjunction with these tools or as their replacement, as in Shark007+avisynth.

Because of all the problems, I uninstalled the codec pack and installed haali splitter, ffdshow x86 and avisynth. Playback in WMC was all over the place. My Fringe episodes had audio but it was extremely low while all movies had no audio at all. The only way I could get audio from the movies was to change my default sound device to s/pdif instead of speakers. This isn’t a lasting solution for me because everytime I want to play an actual Blu-ray throught TMT3 Platinum I have to change the sound device back to enable bitstreaming.

After messing with different versions of each program for awhile, I finally found that the official haali splitter v1.9.355.1 used in conjunction with ffdshow v3291 x64 worked as far as playback. All mkv would run through both mkv splitter AND ffdshow audio at the same time. Running through ffdshow automatically increased the volume (without using the volume normalizer or any other tricks) of my Fringe episodes and restored volume on all other mkv files. However, I am now back to square one with these encoder programs as none of them seem to want to work with ffdshow x64 and I am not sure if they like the older version of the haali splitter. I think using the haali splitter over gabest is my first problem but the encoder programs dont like it.

Ripbot does a software check before loading and wont continue loading till I install ffdshow x86. BD Rebuilder will load and extract the a/v stream extremely slow even on normal (only uses 1-15% of my CPU for some reason with random spikes up to 50%) but fails at encoding. If x64 is installed it says none of the codecs are configured properly, if x86 is installed it fails claiming ffdshow version even though I am trying the exact version linked on the forum (3133). If I run BD Rebuilder with the Shark007 codec it is hit and miss with even a/v extracting. If it works at all it’s EXTREMELY fast (using 90%+ of both cores) but at some point it fails with a popup message about the x264 file.

Regardless of what I have installed, MakeMKV files always play in fast forward. I have to remux them to m2ts.

Ontop of all this, TMT3 .170 won’t play mkv files at all and if I try it resets the audio from HDMI passthrough to HDMI PCM. It will play m2ts files but still resets the audio to HDMI PCM.

After all this I am about ready to pull my hair out. Nothing works with each other; you can re encode but cant playback. You can playback but cant re encode.

Guessing the real issue is that I am trying to run on Windows 7 x64. Most of this software has been developed for use with XP x86.

Anyone have a similar setup or ideas that I can try? Is this just were the Blu-ray game is at now and I need to wait for it’s evolution?

Thanks ahead of time even if you just took the time to read all that crap above… lol

So I’m working on quietening down my hybrid ht/gaming PC. It used to be a turbine, and now it’s much quieter already, but I’d like to take it a bit further. Plus, I want to crossfire the video card soon, and that’s going to make the whole thing that much more challenging, so I need everything cooling well.

What I’ve done so far:
-moved all drives up to the top so that the lower passage (air intake) is COMPLETELY empty (it’s a cheap-o mini-tower case).
-Cables routed entirely out of air passages and tied securely
-Swapped out my old radeon 4850 for a passive cooled 5750.
-Removed my stock AMD cooler (WOW that thing was loud!) and repaced it with a xigmatek liquid CPU cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc…82E16835233011
-set up fan control to keep the fan in the cpu cooler on the lowest setting until temps get high
-replaced by generic 450w power supply with a 650w aerocool 0 dba (found for freaking cheap!)

So my finding so far -
This made a HUGE difference. But I want more!

-I think the cpu cooler might not have been the best choice. At lowest setting it keeps the cpu cool most of the time, and at that setting the fan is *almost* inaudible, but not quite. More noticeable is the internal pump noise. Still far below the old fan, but enough that I notice it … Yes, it’s still the quietest cpu cooler I’ve ever used
-I was worried about passive cooling on a (relatively) high performance video card, but it seems to be OK so far. I’ve been logging the temps with speedfan and it hasn’t passed 70* so far. Which is really good considering I have no case fans (yet) other than the power supply.
-Power supply disappointed me a bit. I’ve got it set on the quietest setting, but it still warms up enough to turn the fan on once the PC has been on for more than 10-15 minutes… Still, the fan IS very quiet. In fact, if this power supply noise was the only noise coming from the PC, I’d be very satisfied, so maybe there’s not much room for improvement in a power supply.
-Hard drives still make some noise - they’re normal hard drives in raid-0. Not loud, but audible.

So, my plan right now:

-Start with two 140mm fans - one intake at the lower front of the case, one outlet at the back. Pick fans specifically for silence, and run them at the lowest speed I can keep everything running properly. This doesn’t seem to be necessary for cooling purposes, but I think doing so may let the power supply run cooler, and give some more headroom on CPU cooling. Does anyone have recommendations here? I’m thinking:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc…82E16835103077
16db sounds pretty exciting! 60cfm is pretty amazing for that sound level, I’d think; it should be sufficient (especially since I’m working now, and I’ve got nothing at all)

-With that extra cooling capacity, maybe I could even disable the CPU fan? Or better yet, is there a functional passive CPU cooler (am2 cpu, athlon 64 x2 5600+). I’m not at all opposed to underclocking 5-10% if it will give me the capacity for quieter operation without risk of loss of stability.

-Next, make "room" for crossfiring the video cards. Two problems here. First, since it’s mini-tower, the heatsinks are directly underneath the cards. right now that hasn’t been enough heat to be an issue, but once I have two in there, I expect the upper one is going to have a problem. Plus, I’m already talking about making the CPU quieter - having those two giant heat production units directly under the CPU isn’t helping there. So, my plan there is to cut another fan slot into the door of the case and mount this bad boy -
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc…82E16835103072
exhausting directly over the card sinks. Again, 16dba, and the way sound stacks, all three would be just barely 20db even if I ran them at full voltage (which, of course, I wouldn’t! )

-Finally, install a small SSD drive for the operating system and set the actual hard drives to a very aggressive powerdown cycle to shut them up.

So - that’s it so far - Any other suggestions that could be done relatively inexpensively? Or suggestions on a good dead silent cpu cooler, or better suggestions on the fans? All ideas welcome!

TOTAL HTCP NOOB and my apologies if this thread is already on this site somewhere amongst the 5 million i see,ive been reading on this topic obsessively 1-2 hrs a night @ 3nights ,my eyes hurt.

Experience: Basically, i have a Desktop PC and a standalone Panasonic blu ray player.Been burning AVCHD format blu rays (4gb 5.1 DD m2ts/x264) to disc and getting VERY tired of it of the waste,the bs,the back n forth.Never really watched a whole movie on a PC(computer chair not as comfy as the couch).I dont have HDMI output on my PC or the nuts on it to play x264 anyways.I have transcoded many different types of video (by hand) with some knowledge on that but thats the extent of my expertise with regards to computing.

Decision: Buy a 200 dollar free shipping Acer Revo 1600 and add 2gb Ram
(40$),throw a wireless USB in their, and see what happens.

Problem: As a Noob to HTPC (keep in mind i havent played a video game since mike tysons punch-out)Ive never had an XBOX or playstation or wii, my head is spinning with everything ive been reading..Hit wikipedia (software definitions) about 100 times in the last three days trying to figure the difference between MCE WMP XBMC UBUNTU LINUX COREAVC DXVA MPC-HC.Now of course i’ve used VLC and MPC and NERO,but im not going to be needing that anymore apparently…So what next?

What i need: A software program,that doesnt take up too much cpu,that plays ALL/MOST video files/formats/containers ESPECIALLY x264,and DIvx/xvid very well.Like the best.I’m not interested in anything else.Just to be able to use it as a PC (lightweight stuff) and to play 1080p.No streaming,no netflix,no social media or whatever,no games.Just 1080p and Use it as a PC.

In a perfect world i would like to keep the Xp Home on it.Can i add XBMC to that?Do those even go together?Do i run XBMC on a flash drive (if i DO chose to go that route)?Or should i upgrade to windows 7 with media center?

I have NO clue.Once i think i have read a solution,someone else knocks it.I suck at trial and error folks.I will end up breaking something.

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Hey, everyone. I’m very new to HTPC’s, but an old soul when it comes to building, speccing, and pricing computers, as well as general DIY tech issues. First of all, let me just say that I’ve been dreaming about the concept of a HTPC for years, and am shocked to find how much the market has changed since the oh-so-revolutionary days of the early AIW models from ATI. It just blows my mind to see what these HTPC puppies are doing today! And, might I add, how sleek, luxurious, quiet, and (temperature) cool they seem!

Anyways, I’m graduating in the next semester and am just beginning research on a HTPC setup I want to build several months out. As such, I’m planning for the long term and would like to design a HTPC that can interface with my eventual setup of:

1. My laptop
2. My girlfriend’s laptop
3. Gaming/general use desktop
4. Living room entertainment system (46-55” 1080p LCD w/ 5.1 surround sound)
5. Bedroom entertainment system (32-42” 1080p LCD w/ 2.1…maybe 5.1 surround sound)
6. Possible Xbox 360? PS3? Wii?
7. My iPhone/Girlfriend’s iPhone?
   • I’ve read about quite a few programs that can interface with the iPhone in rather interesting and unique ways. This would be a definite plus if implemented properly.
8. If relevant, as I know there’s been some discussions raving against this cable provider and that cable provider, I’ll be under Comcast or Time Warner (not sure yet)

I would like to place my HTPC in my living room and use my HTPC for (in no particular order):

• BluRay Playback
• Playing ripped BluRay content
  • Favorite movies
• Playing ripped DVD content
  • Seasons of our favorite shows
• DVR/PVR at least 2 shows at once in living room
  • WAF is important here – I want her to be able to easily use the basics of the system without having to understand the underlying complexities of the setup
  • I want to be able to DVR/PVR anything I’m able to watch on cable, if possible, including high-def content and even channels like HBO
• Seamlessly move between DVR content and playing music
  • Prefer to open one underlying program with access to my movies, music, etc.
    • This fact strongly points me in the direction of WMC.
• Interface with Netflix
• Stream DVR’ed content to Bedroom, laptops, desktop
  • Minimum of living room +1 other screen at same time
• Share music/photos/files between computers
  • i.e. share music/files/photos between all three computers
• I would like to be able to lay in my bed and play any of my music via my surround sound in my bedroom. Bonus would be setting up bedroom surround sound as an alarm clock.
• Moderate Gaming
  • I don’t need a screaming fast HTPC, but I’m not concerned about the budget
• Live TV playback
  • Although this seems basic, I just want to make it clear
• Comprehensive universal remote
  • Logitech Harmony? – WAF important here
  • I don’t need the girlfriend to be able to rip BluRays on the fly, but I do need her to be able to play movies, record her own shows, and play them on whatever screen she likes, while feeling comfortable about switching to CNN.com and playing The Beatles before switching back to an episode of The Bachelor.
• I like subtitles, so the ability to retain close captioning/subtitles is a bonus.

As I’ve always been held back by my budget, thanks to tuition and college life, I’d like to cut loose a little bit and am looking to design a full home network from the ground up. The rest of the network will consist of the aforementioned laptops and desktop, along with Ethernet in the walls and, probably, an 802.11n wifi router. In the long term, I’m looking to add some Home Automation features, but that’s neither here nor there.

Some stuff/brands I would like to include and/or keep in mind:

• I would like to utilize Windows 7, as everything I’ve heard about it has been positive in nearly every respect.
• I’m an Intel/NVIDIA fanboy, but I don’t mind going AMD/ATI if they’re clearly better in terms of performance/reliability.
• I want a machine that has room to grow/expand
• I want a reliable machine that won’t heat up like a nuke with a high WAF
  • sleek look, and user friendly controls once the system is setup, etc.
• Quiet, but relatively powerful
• No firm budget, but I don’t see why I couldn’t keep it well under ~$3,000, based upon my preliminary research. This, however, is by no means a hard-cap on my budget.

So, to get to the point, I’m looking to build my first HTPC that will do the above. From what I’ve read, Windows 7 using WMC would be a good option, although it sounds like I would have to do some tweaking to get full BluRay sound/picture going on the native WMC GUI. Furthermore, I’ve been looking heavily into the Logitech Harmony remotes and some nice ThermalTake cases, and the Ceton quad tuner TV card.

A few questions/concerns of mine…

• Would WMC be able to accomplish everything I want to do here? Is there another interface that would better suit my needs?
• Would the best method of sharing/streaming music and files (Word, Excel, Powerpoint, bookmarks?) between computers be a standard networking shared folder?
• Could the HTPC w/ a Ceton tuner stream DVR’ed content to another screen while playing on the main screen as I suspect it will, or do I need a WHS setup? When do you need a WHS setup?
• Would the Logitech Harmony remote be able to control the TV, HTPC, and surround sound in such a way that it could perform all major features (i.e. change channel, DVR stuff, swap to music, swap to PC so that I can snag my wireless keyboard and type up an email)? Would I need another Harmony remote in my bedroom to control that TV?
• I don’t yet have a Xbox 360 or a PS3, but I will likely get one in the future. Would it behoove me to get one as an ‘extender’ for my bedroom? Is the best way to aesthetically connect the extender to my network via Ethernet from the wall (i.e. have the extender connected to the network via hardwire Ethernet jack in the wall)? Would this type of connection reduce quality of content or cause delays?

So far I’ve found this forum to have the largest body of readily available information, so I figured I’d throw out my current plans into the waters of more experienced DIY HTPC’ers and flesh out my Swiss cheese plans with some more concrete ideas about what to do and where to look for info.

My current thoughts on a build are as follows:
Please note that I’m not highly concerned with nailing down the exact CPU, Mobo, HDD, RAM configuration right now. I want to nail down the best Case, remote, GPU, and Tuner configuration for my needs/wants first. From there, I’m capable of fitting the appropriate CPU/mobo/RAM config.

CPU – Intel i7 920

Mobo - I want to be able to add SLI/Crossfire later if I don’t initially. I want to be able to take advantage of USB 3.0 in the future.

GPU – Open to several options. As fast as I can get without generating too much heat, taking up too much space, or sacrificing reliability. To me, reliability is pretty important for a HTPC

TV Tuner – Ceton Digital Cable Quad-Tuner Card

Case – Touch screen seems irrelevant. Memory card inputs (for cameras etc) on front is a bonus. WAF is important. Size doesn’t matter as long as it can reasonably fit on a shelf and keeps everything cool (temperature/reliability/sleekness matter more than size).

Storage - (1x) SSD for OS/important files/games and (1x) 1.5-2 TB HDD for storage. I don’t see myself outgrowing 2 TB for quite some time, and I don’t care if my case can’t hold a second 1.5-2 TB HDD.

RAM - 4-6 Gb of quality DDR3 w/ heatspreaders etc.

Remote – Logitech Harmony (Count 1, possibly 2 if needed for bedroom)

Sound Card – None (I’ve read that you don’t need a sound card and just need to setup some type of bitstreaming to get your high-def sound to work with your 5.1 speakers)

OS – Windows 7 Home Professional

GUI of choice for DVRing etc – WMC?

Necessary Codecs/programs - …Help?

Router – Although I plan to connect my desktop, HTPC, and extender, if I have one, via hardwire from the Ethernet wall jacks, I will have an 802.11n router for streaming/sharing w/ my laptops.

Thanks for any feedback, information, or for direction in terms of where to do further research!

P.S. Forgive me for being long-winded, but I merely wanted to be thorough and answer any basic questions about what my intentions and constraints were.

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One would have visited innumerable sites, which could have even listed in top rankings in search engines, but when we click through the URL, one will end up in finding that it is still under construction, it’s one of the classic examples for bad website planning. It will not only incur displeasure from users, but it will fabricate a situation where user will never click the URL again.
Web developers who have realized that they have committed such a serious blunders, have realized that it’s better to fabricate all web pages for website ready, and then giving life to it in internet.
As SquarePegWeb.com knows that websites need a constant Midas touch every week or every month, to inform the audience about their new products or services, and it’s always better to plan a website properly before itself as SquarePegWeb.com does.
Database servers which are going to bear the website must be selected keeping in mind about one’s business objective. One should have a clear vision before kick starting any website; if one can spend some quality time in it then can reap rich benefits in saving time and money, SquarePegWeb.com does it for you and hence it’s the only destination for all your web needs.
In this era of Internet rage, search engine rankings have almost become pivotal for any business to breathe its oxygen. One should have a clear vision as how many web pages one is going to launch for a week or a month to their database servers. As you know that website maintenance is very expensive and it’s better to avail their time properly and constructively to propel search engine rankings.
As one is dawned that there is titanic number of free templates and web designs are available for ones site, but one should be very solicitous in choosing it because, the controls for such web design or templates are rigid, and one can’ t fiddle with it, like one does with his custom made templates and layout.
SquarePegWeb.com client websites are indubitable business centers, which should approached with a vision, and it can alleviate the process of website maintenance which is incessant process and save ones quality time and dollars for sure.

Hello all,

I know that codec’s and decoders are covered pretty extensively in this forum. Some require extensive setup, some are just packs that install in minutes and off you go. I’m not trying to beat a dead horse here but I have just had plain bad luck with trying to outfit my htpc with what I consider a good setup.

Let me say that what I have tried thus far ranges from installing Sharks Codec Pack - to lesser codec packs - to ffdshow/avisynth/matroska splitter/etc. I always seem to end up back at one spot, a hodge podge of stuff loaded on my htpc. Things that worked for some files, but not all. Or - not working at all and requiring a reload.

The "decoder" is probably the single most frustrating thing for me with regard to my HTPC. What I am looking for is what most are looking for: the ability to play ripped dvd’s in higher quality then I will get with the 7MC decoder built-in. And, play my MKV’s, avi’s, divx, etc. AND - I want to set it up once, and be done. I don’t want to constantly have to open up a configuration interface to fine tune for a file that doesn’t play. Maybe this takes me the codec pack route, maybe it doesn’t.

As of now I have followed, yet another guide, that details how to set up ffdshow, avisynth, reclock, etc. I have used the graphstudio utility to determine that my audio and video decoder is in fact ffdshow. When I go to play a dvd in MCE I get a decoder error. If I use the MCE decoder utility to re-enable the built-in decoder dvd’s play again.
I can use Media Player classic to do some quality testing and I must say, it is difficult at best to discern any difference between MCE playing the dvd with its built-in decoder and Media Player Classic playing the same dvd through ffdshow.

How much difference is there really with ffdshow, set up properly, vs the built-in 7mc decoder with regard to playing dvd’s? Closer to 5% or 50%?

Is there a better alternative than ffdshow that utilizes hardware? (I have an Nvidia 8800gt in my HTPC)

Can ffdshow be a "set-it-and-forget-it" option or is that unrealistic?

I’m not incredibly satisfied with the quality of my dvd’s played back on my 60" 1080p plasma in MCE. This is why I am trying to figure out the best course but there are so many different pieces of advice, setups, and decoders. Any help would be much appreciated.

Scott

I was given the remnants of an old PC, and I am considering using it for an HTPC. The mobo is a ASUS p5ad2-e premium with a single core intel p4 running at 3.4 Ghz, with 2.5GB of DDR2 RAM. I have installed win7 pro as an OS, and it has an 80GB IDE HD housing the OS. Currently I have an old crappy video card in it, and it’s rough enough that when I try to view full-screen video on my 20" LCD monitor, I get a BSOD on the execution of the screen expand. I also recently added a 1TB SATA WD green edition drive (64 MB cache), primarily as a means to house backups for other machines I have in my home network, although it will also now be the central store for all my media files.

Since this is an "extra" machine, and it seems to have decent horsepower in it, I was thinking about using this as a starter HTPC and media hub. I’ve also looked at using a cheap XFS Radeon 4350 card to help out with the graphics work. I selected this partly because of a severely limited budget, and I’m also constrained by needing to use component input on my TV (it’s an old Sony kdp-65xbr2 RPTV, but it still works great), and this card has the 9 pin S-video port which will support component out . My concern is being able to play back both DVD’s and possibly blueray in the future, through the component dongle attached to this port. My only other machine I can hook up with the component dongle (which came in my pile of used PC parts) is my wife’s work laptop (older dell Inspirion), and it shuts off the output to the TV on DVD playback. Except for the inability to play DVD back on the TV screen, I was impressed by the screen clarity I was able to get through the component connection on a 65" TV. I’m not sure how DRM plays into feeding out copyrighted material from the PC to TV connections, or if this is related to the laptop’s limitations. Should any decent modern card like the 4350 be able to stream HD upconverted output from both physical DVD’s and ripped movie files? Is the age/speed of the rest of the system going to keep me from having a workable setup?

TIA, this forum has been a tremendous resource for learning about how to build my HT so far!

I just built another HTPC based on the Intel 661 processor. My specs are as follows:
Intel 661 Clarkdale CPU
GIGABYTE GA-H55M-S2H LGA 1156 Intel H55 HDMI Micro ATX
OCZ Gold 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333
2TB Hitachi HD
LG Bluray Drive
Windows 7 x64

My connections are as follows:
Motherboard > HDMI > Denon 4310ci > HDMI > 65" Panasonic HT-65PZ850U

When I install a vanilla copy of Win7 with no other software or drivers the audio works fine. I hear the Win7 startup sound. I get audio in all of my ripped DVDs, etc. I see the correct speaker layout on my Denon display.

As soon as I install the Intel HD Graphics drivers, the audio stops working. I can see the speaker displayed correctly on my Denon. I can see that the computer is making noise through the volume control panel but I get no audio through the speakers. If I go through the generic Win7 speaker config and swith audio profiles from Stereo to Surround (or anything else), the audio starts working again. But once I switch audio sources, ie, Media Player, Media Center, TV, etc…the audio stops working until I switch the speaker config again.

Everything that is recorded has audio but the playback usually requires that I "jiggle" the speaker config to actually hear audio out of my system.

Sometimes I can get the audio to play by switching between an analog channel and a HD channel.

As a side note, bitstreaming with Arcsoft works flawlessly (with the 170 beta build). My Denon decodes DD TrueHD and DTS-HD MA.

As another side note, my old HTPC was connected to the same system but was i7 based with a Xonar 1.3slim audio card. I had zero problems with this setup.

I’ve setup Win7 from scratch a number of times to isolate the issue to the graphics driver. Everything works fine until I install the Intel driver. I’ve also tried 3 different versions of the driver to no avail.

As you can imagine, this renders this HTPC pretty useless.

Anyone have any ideas or experiencing the same problems?

I am not sure that this is my issue, but I have been chasing it down for a while now. (I was pointed in the direction of interlacing with the Nvidia card) I have yet to figure out how to manually set the bob vs weave vs VA deinterlacing setting with this card.

I have a Acer x3200
AMD CPU 8400 Phenom X3 2.1
4 gigs Ram
BFG 9400GT 1 gig
Hauppauge HVR 1250

Out put via S-video to a Projection TV at 480i (1024×768) 29hz

I am having issues with recordings. I thought it was the TV tuner (might still be). When I watch or record SDTV sometimes I get a bob/flicker/jump. It is most noticeable when I am watching/recording family guy/simpsons/etc. Especially when I look at the TBS/FX/USA symbol in the lower right/left hand side. It also happens when watching movies and shows in SD on SD channels. (USA,FX,) This is all on Clear QAM through the Hauppauge 1250 with Comcast. I do not have any issues watching HD channels.

I have plugged the HTPC into my LCD via HDMI and see the same result at 1080p with these stations. When I watch the recorded shows on my laptop (HP dv5 with a 1920×1050 screen) I get the same issue with the picture jumping/bob/flicker. Also when I plug my Laptop into my LCD via HDMI to watch the recorded content I also get the same picture quality issue.

This is why I think it is the tuner card. If it was a GPU/Video card issue I would think that the recordings would play fine on my laptop.

Unfortunately my laptop also has n Nvidia graphics card (9200m) So it could be the way that the SD video is being displayed.

does anyone have any suggestions? How, if at all can I adjust the Bob/weave/VA setttings on the Nvidia cards. I have tried Inverse Telecine on and off. It does not seem to make any difference.

I am about to go guy a new tuner card to see if that is the issue but I am waiting for the Ceton card, or I might just go to OTA and cancel the cable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well, the flooding of requests/posts of EDID mods to fix bitstreaming issues on ATI 5xxx’s has made it necessary to open a new dedicated thread..

Please understand that I’m currently the only one doing the mods so ask for a mod only if none of the ones listed works for you.

In the meantime you should press AMD to release a fix ASAP. Follow this link to leave your feedback to them and even post a link to this thread:

http://www.amdsurveys.com/se.ashx?s=5A1E27D27E29B0E3

For most cases the (*) mods will work, so if you don’t find the specific mod for your HDTV/AVR combination, try these first.

I add an updated install procedure and instructions to captute the FULL REAL-TIME 256-byte EDID of both display device & AVR/AVP.

I also attach all overrides in one .zip file if needed.

NOTE: so far YAMAHA & PIONEER AVRs do not require an EDID override for bitstreaming on 5xxxs cards.

1. EDID OVERRIDES

EDID Override (Display Device - AVR-AVP, with link)	Comment
Hitachi L42S503 - ONKYO TX-SR605
Panasonic G1 - DENON AVR1909	Panasonic LCD TV + DENON AVR
Panasonic TH-42PZ700U - DENON AVR3808	Panasonic Plasma TV + DENON AVR
Panasonic TV - ONKYO TX-SR606
Panasonic TC-P50G15 - DENON 1910	Panasonic Plasma TV + DENON AVR
Pioneer LX5090H - DENON 2808	Pioneer Plasma + DENON AVR
Samsung (DLP) - Onkyo TX-SR805	Samsung DLP TV (720p) + ONKYO AVR
Samsung HL-T6176S - ONKYO TX-SR607	Samsung DLP TV + ONKYO AVR
Samsung HL-T6176S - SONY STR-DN1000	Samsung DLP TV + SONY AVR
(*) Samsung LN-S4095D - DENON AVR988	Should work for most LCD TVs + DENON AVR
(*) Samsung LN-S4095D - ONKYO TX-NR906	Should work for most LCD Tvs + ONKYO AVR
Samsung PS50B530 - ONKYO TX-SR607	Samsung Plasma TV + ONKYO AVR
Samsung PN58A650 - DENON 3808	Samsung Plasma TV + DENON AVR
Sony 52W5500 - DENON AVR1910	SONY LCD TV + DENON AVR

2. INSTALLATION

Easy Method

1. Go to Start
   Computer [Right-click]
   Properties [Select]
2. Device Manager [Select]
   Monitors[Expand]
   Monitor ID [Righ-Click] (usually "Generic PnP Monitor")
   Properties [Select]
   Driver tab [Select]
   Update Driver button [Select].
3. Make sure that the .inf driver is the ONLY one in its dir
   Browse my computer for driver software [Select]
   Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer [Select]
   Have Disk [Select]
   Browse to the directory where .inf driver is located.
   Click on .inf file and then on the Open button
   OK [Select]
   Next [ Select]
   Confirm installation if necessary ([Windows Security] Install this driver software anyway)
   Close [Select]
   REBOOT

Alternate method

If you have more than 1 monitor setup you most probably will have more than one "Generic PnP Monitor" device in the Monitors tab. Use this alternate procedure for these cases.

1. Mouse on Desktop [Right-click]
   Personalize [Select]
2. Display [Select]
   Change display settings [Select]
   Screen of the display device to override [Select]
   Advanced settings [Select]
   Monitor Tab [Select]
   Properties button [Select]
   Driver tab [Select]
   Update Driver button [Select]
3. Follow step 3 from Easy Method above

3. EDID CAPTURE with MONINFO

The EDID Override mod for solving the bitstreaming and/or video handshake issues on the 5xxxs is usually made up by a combination
of the display device video data stored in its corresponding EDID + the audio descriptors of Onkyo TX-NR906 EDID that solves
the bitstreaming issues + rest of information stored in the AVR/AVP EDID.

So, the 2 EDIDs (display device & AVR/AVP) are required to do the mod. Also the full REAL-TIME (no registry entries) 256-byte EDIDs are required. But NOTE that, so far, Moninfo cannot capture the full REAL-TIME EDIDs on the 5xxxs, and I know of no other method to do it.

Therefore to capture the full 256-EDID AFAIK your only choices are either, to temporarily use another graphic adapter, or use another PC to do the capture.

Display Device EDID Capture

1. Connect the graphic card HDMI-in to your display device HDMI-out.
2. Launch Moninfo.
   "[Real time ...]" entry on top left "Display IDs" window [Select]
   File [Select]
   Create INF [Select]
   SAVE TO [Your display device name].inf. (e.g. Samsung LN-S4095D)

AVR/AVP EDID Capture

1. Connect the graphic card HDMI-in to your AVR/AVP HDMI port.
   [Optionally] Connect the AVR HDMI port to the display device HDMI-out.
2. Launch Moninfo.
   "[Real time ...]" entry on top left "Display IDs" window [Select]
   File [Select]
   Create INF [Select]
   SAVE TO [Your display AVR/AVP name].inf. (e.g. DENON AVR988)

Attached Files

EDID Overrides.zip (15.5 KB)