Samsung HL-R5678W Help! please…
Every once in a while (maybe once a month) I would turn on the TV to have no display - black screen with audio. Normally, I could power it OFF and ON to correct it (no blinking lights).
More recently, my colors have been acting up. One day I turn on the TV and everything is green in color. Turning it OFF and ON had no effect. I unplugged the TV from my UPS and plugged it directly in the wall, just for fun. No change - GREEN picture. After leaving it OFF most of the day it came on fine later that evening. (see attachment - tv_green.jpg)
After this no problems for about a week. Then one morning I turn on the TV and noticed the colors where not right. It seemed to be missing RED? Also, there are bands or bars in the picture, not to mention some chunky blocks. (see attachment - tv.jpg & tv2.jpg)
Since I am seeing color problems right away I am thinking "Color Wheel", then I read where bands could point to the "DMB"? I don’t hear any strange noises coming from the unit, nor do I get any blinking lights. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks ~ Jason
Catastrophic problem with my 46" Hitachi F500! Please help
But the red gun on the right side of the screen is WAYYY off, I’m talking about an inch from where it should be. The ghosting when watching TV is horrible. I immediately went into the Magic Focus and pulled up the grid and it looked like someone grabbed the red grid and pulled the right side almost to the middle of the grid boxes. The center remained practically fine and the left side was only slightly out of alignment.
What the heck could have happened? It’s like the TV was dropped down the steps but it hasn’t been moved and the other 2 colors seem fine (enough).
I tried the Auto Magic Focus and it appeared to make the problem worse. At first it tries to pull the red to the left, but then reverses direction and there is no way to stop it. It pulls until the red side block disappears and then it just seems to crash the Magic Focus program.
I tried to manually pull the red back but it doesn’t budge on the side where the problem is, but strangely sometimes over on the left side it will move the red line on the right side, but with no particular pattern.
[b]I’d really like to know how to get the smaller grid (3X3, 4X4), but the information I have (press 0 five times) doesn’t do anything. I don’t know if the instructions I have were for a different model (mine is the 46" F500) but they certainly don’t work.
Is there a service-level menu to do this in? I seem to remember seeing a grid a long time ago when I was doing service level tweaks, but I don’t want to fool around with some of the ISF stuff unless I know exactly what to do.
Thank you all for your help in advance as right now I’m sweating bullets. I love this TV and can’t afford to replace it. Please help!
Tilt a DPL forward?
Buy a ventless gas insert. Close the opening that nakes it hollow with fire rated brick. Pack it full of insulation to keep the hollowness of it from retaining the heat. Build a fairly deep/thick mantle to house my center channel and have he face of it framed/removeable and covered in grill cloth (hide center channel, and is extra storage place for games) Also the top of it would be where the tv sets on. And I could anchor it (top/rear) to the brick via chain to connect to the tv chassy (SP?). I would make 2 cable troths going from the tv and center channel thru the hollow space (would be then closed off so heat wouldn’t stagnate into the fireplace) to the built in cabinets beside it. The mantle would have to be kida deep, but the base of the fireplace sticks out kind of far anyway - 18".
The built it cabinets on either side of it rattle during bass, so they’d be replaced with custom cabinets built out of 2- 3/4" layers of MDF sprayed with heat resistant black spraypaint. Of course there would be many 2" diameter rounded holes through the rear of the cabinet shelves for cable routing. The shelving part of it would be open -for ventillation-, and the lower yard of it would be closed cabinets. The shelves/cabinetry would allow me time to remove the sheetrock behind the existing cabinets to make a staggered stud system, and fill it full of fiberglass roll insulation- currently it has no insulation on the outer walls and this is the northeat corner of my mome. One more opportunity would be for the installation of 2 dedicated circuits with larger wiring.
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Thanks for reading this so far but here is my final point…does it hurt to tilt a dlp with a colorwheel? Meaning you it put strain on the engines motor at all? Reason I am asking is the box it came in said this side up, do not lie on face….
How-to change the coolant on a Phillips Model # 46PP930217
I recently was given a Philips 46" Model # 46PP930217.
I noticed a bluish-white haze around white objects and words on screen and started doing some research on it and found that it could be due to cloudy coolant in the projectors. I took it apart and found cloudiness in the blue gun as well as bugs. Also the lenses were filthy so I cleaned those off with windex and a lint free cloth.
I have a lot of experience with electronics, so I’m not afraid to change this fluid, I just want to do it correctly.
Also, how hard would it be to change the convergence IC’s for the blue? I can solder very well, so I know I can do it.
Is there a general how-to for this?
Pics attached.
Problem with Panasonic PT-43LC14: Yellow tint covering most of screen. Convergence ok
Anyway since they were going to just toss it I figured I’d take it and see if I can fix it. I’m comfortable taking apart and fixing electronics though I don’t know much about projection TVs. I took several pictures so maybe someone here will know something. I’d be willing to spend a couple hundred to fix it but that’s it.
Periodic Sudden Brightness "Shift" on JVC 56FH97
Fast forward a few years to this past Christmas when I got a PS3. I picked up DVE on bluray and recalibrated the set - as expected some brightness has been lost as the lamp ages but I am still solidly on the "negative" side of the factory brightness and contrast settings at least. However, I am now seeing the same "dimming" behaviour on the PS3 source also (connected on the second HDMI port), although honestly I can’t say I have noticed it when playing bluray movies - just when playing games or poking around with the online features (browser, playstation store, etc) or the main XMB screen/menus.
Any ideas what might be causing this? Is it a symptom of some kind of a known issue with these sets? Or is this maybe some kind of AC powerline issue that maybe a power conditioner or UPS could cure?
Problems during and after cleaning all lenses. philips 55PL9524/37
I took out and then opened the mirror/lens housing. I immediately noticed large amounts of dust on every single mirror and lens. This being my first time playing with somethign like this i started with isopropyl rubbing alcohol .. Needless to say the first 2 circular lenses had some coating rubbed off (about 1/4 each of slightly tinted coating) that looked like small to medium spots. I switched to just standard soft toilet tissue with water after which seems to work very (no streaks)well. 
I then reached the processor and the mirrors/glasses next to it which lead to the projector lens. Less dust here. I immediatly noticed the similar dark ring the set produced on the mirrors here. I pinpointed it to the piece of glass closest to the processor (circled in red ). I had to remove the processor from the lens housing to get to it, not easy. This requried removing 3 bolts/nuts with springs that keeps the processor at a certain distance from the first mirror. I measured these distances with the scale on a syringe (best i could do). This glass was about 1/5th an inch thick and had a thin and clear film attached to it. The light brown ring was between the film and glass. I had no choice but to take off the film with a razor and clean it up. 
I finished up by cleaning up the remaining lenses and then proceeded with taking off the top rear panel and cleaning the insides out of that, which includes the giant mirror and inside of the screen itself. Alot of dirt here. Did it with soft paper towels and water.
Okay so now reassembling the TV turned out to be a problem. It seems like the deattachable spine that locks in the rear top portion to the rear bottom portion grew 1/2 an inch. The lower back panel’s bottom screw will NOT lineup to the top screws(and vice versa) not allowing me to fully attach the rear bottom panel . standing from a few feet away with the TV tilted forward lookin at the underside of the TV, it looks like the middle-rear is bulging out (where the spine connects). The top portion seems to be connected properly. All parts seem to be aligned properly. And the bottom portion, which is just a plastic floor with the 3 main clusters (power, imaging, and connections) attached to it, wasn’t removed. Only the imaging cluster was removed.
With the lower rear panel not fully attached the TV works. The dark ring problem is gone finally. and the brightness is pretty much back to normal levels (it was very dark before). I now have some video problems. The video gets progressively blurry from top left to bottom right. It gets noticable at the bottom right corner where small letters are no longer destinguishable. the whole screen seems to be not a perfect rectangle anymore. Top and bottom are slightly closer together than the middle.. and this effect seems to be stronger on the left side of the screen.
Can anyone help me or guide me in the right direction ? i figure it could be a number of things: the two lenses with 1/4 of their coating rubbed off. The back panel not being fully attached (allows light from outside to enter the lens housing?). required recalibration not done. processors distance to first mirror changed after reattachment. That’s all i can thnk of. I’ll try to post more pictures later today.
Suggestions Sammy HL67A750 vs. Mits. WD-73737
Wanted the biggest screen with the best picture I could afford. Because no one locally carries the monsters accept American, I bought the Mits. WD-73736 from American TV in Peoria. The TV is delivered not that weekend as original state, but a week later and the delivery guys just take off. I open it up, and there is no remote or manuals, and the front is scratched bad! I call the store and after being transferred to the television department in stores in other states…awesome…I get the associate in IL who says he’ll see if he can find a remote and send it. They’ll knock $100 bucks off for the scratches. I get the remote in the mail a few days later and its a demo remote with permanent marker on it and velcro sticky. I call the store, get transfered to Iowa by the front desk again, and finally get the associate who says, "what do you want me to do, I have no other remotes, and you got $100 off for the scratches." I say I need a new remote now, where did the ones from a brand new tv go? At this point I start watching the TV, and the screen has what appears to be a burn in spot. The scratches on the front look like they would have been the result of something that would have destroyed the screen, but the screen looks perfect. There’s no way this happened in a sealed box. I try to get a a manager on the phone, and after hours of waiting for a call back, I drive to the store 45 minutes away. The hand me a new remote when I walk in…where is this from. Oh we found another new 73736 we had in the store. I thought there were none left? They say the computer was only listing a nasty demo item that had gone through service for a new screen and new board in the back. So another unit magically appeared? I show them photos of the scratches and the burn in. After arguing I finally get them to admit that they delivered the beat up unit to me and tried to pass it off as the new one. They agree to deliver the new unit to my house a week later.
Sorry this is so long, but its not over yet. They deliver the new TV 2 weeks after the original purchase. I watch one delivery guy kick the box to the end of the truck. They take the TV in the house, pick up the old one and kick it until they get it to fit back in the old box. I plug in the new one, and turn it on…nothing, the status light goes red…TV is dead. The delivery guy says that’s normal and takes off as I read through the manual. I do all the steps…resets, unplug, etc. Its dead. I peel off the clear film protection that this TV actually has, the other didn’t, and find that the whole edge of the unit is cracked. This thing took a major hit. I call the store and ask for a manager, they transfer me to Davenport, IA. I call back my store, and I’m told everyone is busy. I explain my full situation and ask for a manager or associate ASAP. They say as soon as one is done with a customer, they’ll call me back on my cell. An hour and half later, I show up at the store. Mind you this is the second day I’ve taken time off work for a delivery that has gone wrong. No one is out helping anyone, the store is empty. I wait 20 minutes for the manager to come out of his office and talk to me. At which point I’m offered this. I can pay more money to have them deliver a Samsung Series 6 72". They have no more 73736’s and they can’t get me anything for at least a week…or 3 days after the initial purchase. They won’t take any hit for there screw up. I’m furious. I drive to Best Buy and explain what happened. I’ve bought everything from BB in the past, but I want the 73 and they didn’t have it. They offer me a very low price on a HL67A750 LED DLP Sammy floor model. I think its 700 below list…I think I’m not supposed to give the exact price on here. They’re real nice, I get it in my house that night.
So here’s where I need help. I’m a Premier Silver Rewards Member at BB, so the manager told me I have 45 days…if I don’t like it I can trade it back in. There website lists the Mits. 73737 as coming soon…the phone folks think its just a matter of days. I really liked the size of the 73 Mits. The viewing angle seems a little more sensitive on the Sammy. The sammy was easier to set-up calibration, but I think the picture is flatter in dark scenes. Gaming has no lag on the sammy, but dark games like COD4 have poor clarity in the dark.
I think I want to trade this in on the Mits. 73737 if it comes out by June 14, but I don’t want to make a stupid move. I realize the LED is nice for no bulb replacement, but can you folks throw me your opinions? I would really appreciate your time. I read through 100’s of posts before buying, bought the Mits. and learned to calibrate it from here. Then I had to learn a new TV set-up from this site with the Sammy. So I value your opinions on whether trading the HL67A750 for a WD-73737 would be completely dumb, or a good call. I was angry and I made a quick decision when I bought it. I want to think this decision out and bounce it off you folks.
Thanks so much!
Tried to Buy an Extended Warranty from New World Video Direct
So, last week I contacted NWV Direct and tried to buy a 5 year Philips Priority Service EW. I talked with a guy named Maurice and I made it clear to him that I was at the end of 270 days of ownership which many of the warranties on the NWV Direct website claim as a limit to purchase the EW. He told me he would rather see me with a MACK warranty and criticized the Philips EW. He said the MACK EW was more expensive, but was on sale and the sale ended that day. I informed him I hadn’t planned on buying the MACK EW and would have to think about it. I reiterated that I was at the end of the 270 day period. He said that was fine, he would still sell me the EW of my choice the next week (it was a Friday), not to worry about it.
I called again on Monday and told Maurice I had my credit card in my hand and wanted to get the Philips warranty. He started criticizing the Philips EW again and pushing the more expensive MACK EW. Now the Mack was on sale for even less money than Friday. He asked me where I lived and then made a typing sound as if he was checking something on his computer. Then he said Philips didn’t use any service centers in my area and Mack did. I told him that didn’t sound quite right and I would have to check with Philips to confirm. I reminded him again about my now being slightly over 270 days of ownership at this point. He said that was fine.
Of course, when I called Philips Priority Service at the number from NWV Direct’s website, the EW company said they had two service centers near my home and laughed about the NWV Direct guy’s tactics. I called NWV Direct Thursday and talked with Maurice a final time. I identified myself and he asked which EW I decided on. I told him Philips. He got upset and told me to order it through the NWV Direct website. I reminded him of my being over the 270 days at this point and that I preferred to buy it from him over the phone to make sure I was still going to be covered as he had assured for the last week. Maurice told me he couldn’t do anything about that since you have to be at 270 days or less and hung up in my face. I later talked with a guy at another company and will probably go with a Bankers Warranty Group EW they sell instead (since he said you really have up to ten months to purchase their EW).
pioneer sd-641hd5 stays in standby
It’s state:
It was working fine for the part two years (I got it used, but the previous owner stated it had no problems with him either) with no problem what so ever.
About a week ago, I turned my rear projection on and it immediately went back to standby. I unplugged it and let it set for some time, and then plugged it back in, it auto-turned on, and then went immediately to standby. Okay, something is wrong I thought. So I pulled the back cover and on the AC board (to the far right if you look at the back of it, a LED (location D118) was lit up. No other lights I could see. Seeing other posts, I removed the power board and found numerous cold solder spots. I corrected that problem and then reattached the board and powered on the set, it went back to standby again immediately. I looked again and now I found that besides the led D118 was lit, the power board had blown fuse FU206, I replaced the fuse and plugged it back in, it blew the fuse again. Checking the schematic, it led me to believe that the AMP board was the fault (specifically the STK392-040s). A suggestion in one of the forums was to remove the STK392s to see if it blew the fuse afterward. I did so, and I found a ton of cold solder joints on AMP board also. I corrected them and then reattached the amp board with the STK392 missing. It powered up and was working, minus the convergence was all jacked. I didn’t bother to do anything, so I powered off the set and ordered the STK392 replacements (the exact ones, not generics). When the new ones arrived, I installed them and then plugged it back in. it went back to the standby light immediately, and the LED D118 was lit up again. NO other leds are on any of the other boards. The forums mentioned to check for an led on the other boards so I looked with the lights turned off in the room. Nothing. I’m baffled on where to go next.
Please help!
